Wednesday, August 19, 2020

Full Bust Adjustment . August Tank Dress

 



As with all Cali Faye designs, the August Tank.Dress was designed with the consideration of the US average woman cup size of B.  If your cup size is larger than a B, you might want to consider accomplishing a Full Bust Adjustment for your August Tank.Dress.

This alteration is super easy.  Like.  Way too easy.  Let's get started.


Seriously, the hardest part about this will be finding your size lines when everything intersects.  Yes, I tried 100 layouts to make this easier, this made the most sense.  Trust me!

Once you've got your bodice pattern piece cut out, now we can chop it up!  
From the center point of the dart, cut a vertical line straight down to the hem of the bodice.
Then, cut out the dart to separate the pieces.


Keeping that vertical cut line between the pieces of the bodice parallel, spread the pieces apart and secure with tape.  For everything cup size over B, you'll want to add ½" to this separation.  So, for C cup separate ½" and for D cup 1" and so on.

The dart center point will now stay perfectly centered in the spread.


So, we want our dart legs to be the same distance.  Measure from the center point of the dart marking to the armscye edge of the bodice where the original dart leg landed. Take note of that length.


Mark that length on the bottom leg dart edge.  It's going to be slightly shorter, but the lengths here are so minimal and we're really only playing around here in the seam allowance which will get chewed up in the garment construction later on.  So, be precise, but give yourself some grace, it doesn't have to be perfect.


Fold the top dart leg over to meet the bottom dart leg with the center of the dart marking as the focal point of the fold. 

Cut away the excess paper and soften the armscye edge.


When you unfold again, you'll have the most beautiful new dart with space for the ladies!

Nice work!  


If you have any questions or concerns feel free to reach out HERE.
Share your creations on your social with the hashtags #AugustTankDress & #califaye!  We love to see what you do with our designs!