Tuesday, August 8, 2017

V A L L E Y B L O U S E . Bodice Tutorial




Recently, I've had a lot of feedback streaming in about the Valley Blouse.  TONS and TONS of great feedback but also a lot of people needing help.  

It's so difficult to put into words how to switch and twist and connect and join and match and turn and repeat and apply and remove and stitch at this length with this out of the way and to include this and ..oh my the list goes on and on.  Finding the perfect words to describe garment construction and to get the point across without adding unnecessary verbiage is my goal.  Straight to the point but then again patterns and tutorial have their own language!  This design is rated at an Intermediate level not only because it's not the easiest garment to construct but you'll need a really good understanding of sewing and pattern terminology before you dig into this bit.

My goal with this tutorial is to get you all past that part of the bodice construction that some of you  find confusing.  Not being able to see the instructions laid out visually makes it much harder to visualize and accomplish.  

So..Here we GO!


Starting from the top...Page 6, step 1 of your tutorial.  (consistent 1 cm (3/8") seam allowance throughout this tutorial)

Join the FRONT YOKE to the BACK YOKE at the shoulder slope, RSF (right sides facing).


Join the remaining FRONT YOKE pieces to the YOKE LINER, RSF.  This is now your YOKE LINER.

Join the MAIN YOKE to the YOKE LINER across the center front edge and around the collar line, RSF.


Trim the seam allowance or create clips to reduce bulk and help the collar lie flat.  Top stitch the seam allowance to the YOKE LINER from shoulder seam to shoulder seam.  This will aid in keeping the lining from flipping to the outside of the bodice.   



Complete the KEYHOLE.  Instruction on Page 6 of the tutorial. For visual guidance on that click HERE FOR OUR KEYHOLE TUTORIAL

Apply 2 basting stitches across the top of each the FRONT and BACK SHIRT. For the FRONT SHIRT you'll need to complete this on each side of the keyhole. One 1/2 cm (1/4") from the top raw edge and one 1 cm (3/8") from the top edge.  


Match the FRONT YOKE to the FRONT SHIRT, RSF.  Evenly distribute the gathers and join.  






READY FOR THE TRICKY STUFF?

Your YOKE LINER is just flapping around in the breeze.  Let's put it to work!

Wrap the YOKE LINER around the MAIN YOKE/SHIRT seam match up with that edge you just stitched up.  You'll be making a BODICE SHIRT sandwich!  







Here's a little vid for some excessive info on this technique.



Pull the YOKE right side out!...Oh my gahhhh....Glorious isn't it!  Can you believe how nice that finish is on the INSIDE of the blouse!  






Join the BACK SHIRT to the BACK YOKE, RSF.


Join the FRONT BODICE to the BACK BODICE at the side seams.  


Finish up your Valley Blouse with sleeves, or like I have with a bias tape finish.  For instruction on how to apply bias tape to the sleeve holes check out our How to Apply Bias Tape Tutorial