Wednesday, May 17, 2017

Full Bust Adjustment . Klein Dress Style


Most sewing patterns are drafted with the consideration of a standard size B cup.  Great if you're a B cup.  Not so great if you've been blessed with more than that.  Even if your body measurements match up perfectly with the pattern size measurements, if you are more than a B cup a Full Bust Adjustment might be in your near future!  You'll get the added fullness in the bust without compromising the fit at the shoulders and the waistline.

So, how do you determine if you need a Full Bust Adjustment?  

If your bodice is too snug across the bust, distorting and pulling at the arm syce, gaping around the waistline or resting higher in the front than in the back, then you probably need a FBA.  
Or, if you are larger than a B cup, expect things to get a little funky.

Full bust adjustments seem like a massive project right?  No worries.  This tutorial will guide you through process as painless as possible while working with the Klein Dress pattern.  

Now, this FBA tutorial will work on any design with a bodice but you'll notice there are a few helpful qualities that the Klein Dress pattern has to it that will help you work the lines effortlessly.


So, get your measuring tape out, some marking utensils, scissors, tape, extra paper and a ruler, and let's get started!

DETERMINE YOUR SIZE

When deciding what size to work in the Klein Dress, reference the high bust measurement rather than the bust measurement to determine your size.  This will will ensure the width across the chest and waist fit better.  The high bust measurement is the circumference measurement taken under the arm pit and above the bust apex.  

Compare your high bust measurement against your bust measurement.  Generally, a 5 cm (2") difference would mean a B cup, 7.5 cm (3") difference a C cup, 10 cm (4") a D cup, and a 13 cm (5") a DD cup.  

MEASURE
Measure your full bust measurement and compare that to the bust measurement of the bodice size you are working(which you decided based on the high bust adjustment.)  
For example, our high bust measurement is 83 cm (32.5") but our full bust measurement is 88 cm (34.5").  Our HB puts us at a size 2-4 and our FB puts us at a size 6-8.  The difference in the measurement is 5 cm (2").  We need to divide that number by 2 because we will be working on a pattern piece will be placed on the fold and doubled.  5 cm (2") / 2 = 2.5 cm (1")  This will be our adjustment.  
DRAW
1. Draw and extended a line through the center of the dart and 1 inch past the dart point. This mark will indicate the bust point.  

2. Draw a line from the dot marking on the arms syce to the bust point.

3.  Draw a line parallel to the grain line marking on the bodice from the bust point to the hem.


4. Draw a line perpendicular to and halfway down the length of the previous line and to the center fold line of the bodice.  

CUT
Cut line 3 and through along 2 leaving a small bit of paper at the arm syce edge as a hinge.

Next, cut along line 1 towards the bust apex, leaving a small bit of paper at the bust apex to use as a hinge.  

Cut across line 4. 
- Place a piece of paper behind your pattern. -
SPREAD
Spread line 3 by the your bust adjustment measurement.  Earlier we figured that to be 2.5 cm (1").

Time to true up the waistline.  Spread line 4 to allow for the waistline hem to follow the same slope.  


Trim away the excess pattern paper except on the dart and side seam.
Redraw and extend the dart lines.


Measure equal distance between the end of the dart on top and bottom and make an indication. Draw a line from the bust apex and through this marking.


Now, fold the dart through the centerline. 

Next, trim away the excess paper at the side seam from the bottom and straight through to the arm syce.  


WALA!   You have your new customized bodice, unique to you, ready to go!