Most sewing patterns are drafted with the consideration of a standard size B cup. Great if you're a B cup. Not so great if you've been blessed with more than that. Even if your body measurements match up perfectly with the pattern size measurements, if you are more than a B cup a Full Bust Adjustment might be in your near future! You'll get the added fullness in the bust without compromising the fit at the shoulders and the waistline.
So, how do you determine if you need a Full Bust Adjustment?
If your bodice is too snug across the bust, distorting and pulling at the arm syce, gaping around the waistline or resting higher in the front than in the back, then you probably need a FBA.
Or, if you are larger than a B cup, expect things to get a little funky.
Full bust adjustments seem like a massive project right? No worries. This tutorial will guide you through process as painless as possible while working with the Klein Dress pattern.
Now, this FBA tutorial will work on any design with a bodice but you'll notice there are a few helpful qualities that the Klein Dress pattern has to it that will help you work the lines effortlessly.
So, get your measuring tape out, some marking utensils, scissors, tape, extra paper and a ruler, and let's get started!
DETERMINE YOUR SIZE
When deciding what size to work in the Klein Dress, reference the high bust measurement rather than the bust measurement to determine your size. This will will ensure the width across the chest and waist fit better. The high bust measurement is the circumference measurement taken under the arm pit and above the bust apex.
Compare your high bust measurement against your bust measurement. Generally, a 5 cm (2") difference would mean a B cup, 7.5 cm (3") difference a C cup, 10 cm (4") a D cup, and a 13 cm (5") a DD cup.
3. Draw a line parallel to the grain line marking on the bodice from the bust point to the hem.
Time to true up the waistline. Spread line 4 to allow for the waistline hem to follow the same slope.
Measure equal distance between the end of the dart on top and bottom and make an indication. Draw a line from the bust apex and through this marking.
Next, trim away the excess paper at the side seam from the bottom and straight through to the arm syce.
WALA! You have your new customized bodice, unique to you, ready to go!