Monday, October 17, 2016

How to line a keyhole . Valley Blouse Style


The keyhole feature of the Valley Blouse is just one of those design features that screams quality.  We all want to wear our handmade blouses, but if you're like me I don't want to compromise the quality or detail in an effort to avoid aspects of garment construction that might seem too difficult or time consuming.  
Luckily, the keyhole feature is neither, although I do understand how it can be intimidating.  
This tutorial is to visually guide you through lining the Valley Blouse keyhole.  The intention with this technique is to keep the keyhole light and flexible.  This technique can be used on any keyhole feature of any blouse.  
What you will need : 
The Valley Blouse pattern and tutorial - guidance for this step is on page 6 of the tutorial
front SHIRT pattern piece with keyhole feature cutout removed
the KEYHOLE LINER pattern piece
pins
scissors
an iron
 Lets begin
Start by aligning the long edge of the KEYHOLE LINER to the curved edge of the keyhole cutout on the front SHIRT.
Gently manipulate the keyhole cut out to match and align with the keyhole liner.  This can be difficult, but lots of pins will help keep things in place.
Here's a look at the "wrong side" of the SHIRT.  The SHIRT wants to fold at the base of the keyhole cutout.  I've controlled the keyhole cutout close to the raw edge with pins just enough to ensure that when I go to join these pieces together, while giving the keyhole feature a little stretch, I won't catch a fold.  
Now, slowly stitch with a 1 cm (3/8") seam allowance to join the pieces together.  Manipulate by pulling gently and moving fabric in a manner to ensure the folds at the base curve of the keyhole cutout do not catch in the stitch line. 
Trim the seam allowance to no less than 0.6 cm (0.25").  
Press the seam allowance towards the KEYHOLE LINER.
 
Fold the loose raw edge of the KEYHOLE LINER over, from right side to wrong side, over the raw edge of the seam allowance.  Press in place with the tip of your iron and with lots of steam.
Fold the KEYHOLE LINER again from the right side to the wrong side to encase all the raw edges.  Ensure the seam line of the SHIRT/KEYHOLE LINER lays along the edge and does not roll onto the right or wrong side of the SHIRT.  
Press, and pin in place.  Again, you will need LOTS of pins to maintain control of this wild curve!
Top stitch no more than 0.6 cm (0.25") from the loose edge to secure the liner to the shirt.
WOOT!  Are you glad that's over?  
Next, fold the shirt in half, right sides facing.  
Apply a short stitch at the very bottom of the keyhole curve, the bit that points out just a bit.  This will keep the keyhole feature from "bowing out" and is often accomplished in standard manufactured clothing with similar characteristics.  

And thats all it take to line the keyhole feature on any blouse you doll up! 
If you have any questions or concerns on any aspect of the Valley Blouse feel free to contact me HERE.
Happy Sewing,
Sarah