Monday, October 17, 2016

How to create welt pockets . Hampshire Trouser Style



Big thumbs up to all the human beings who have lived and generated the technology of fabric and clothing.  Fashion is not only fun with aesthetics but it's also science! And welt pockets might as well be compared to splitting the atom.  
You've probably stared at welt pockets on a great pair of pants for hundred of hours hoping the secrets of these mysterious holes comes spilling out.  When they don't seem to care as much about you as you do them, you then probably Googled the process.
So, you spend months Googling trying to find a great tutorial on how these things work.  After leaving those tutorials you're probably more confused then when you started.  And then...
EUREKA!
You wake up one morning and you think the secret hidden in the deepest parts of your ancestral seamstress soul have come to pass!  So, you get to work as your kids beg you for breakfast and then it happens!  
A WELT POCKET!
At that moment you decide you're ready to share your knowledge with the world so you get a manicure and then get to work on a tutorial for your webpage.
Oh wait......that's just me.
So, without further ado....
PATTERN PIECE PREP
Before we get to work on making a welt pocket make sure you've transferred all pattern markings from the paper print out to the fabric.
Complete the dart on the back pant pieces.  
I recommend applying light weight fusing to the WELT and if you're using a somewhat lightweight fabric, apply it to your WELT BACKING also.  
Neaten the long edges of the WELT BACKING and the long side of the WELT furthest from the welt line dot markings.  Fold the WELT in half and press.
WELT POCKET
Match one POCKET BAG to the back pant, WRONG sides facing.  Use the notches and welt line dot markings as reference points.  Pin the pocket bag in place.
Match the WELT to the back pant, right sides facing.  Align the welt line dot markings.  The raw edge of the WELT should lay up towards the waistline and the neatened edge should lay below the dot markings.  
Stitch the WELT to the back pant from dot marking to dot marking. This stitch will travel through the WELT, BACK PANT and POCKET BAG.
Fold the raw edge of the WELT down and secure in place with pins.
Match the dot markings of the WELT BACKING, right side, to the right side of the BACK PANT.  Secure in place with pins.
While working on the wrong side of the pant, you will see a clear stitch line from the previous stitch which joined the WELT to the BACK PANT and POCKET BAG.  
Sew 1 cm (3/8") above the previous stitch, ensuring to start and stop at equal distance. This stitch will join the WELT BACKING to the BACK PANT and needs to be exactly the same length as the welt stitch for a flawless welt pocket.  
Now, with the WELT BACKING and WELT out of the way, carefully cut the BACK PANT and POCKET BAG between the two stitch lines leaving at least 2 cm (3/4") from the end of the stitch lines.  From there, fork the cut to the ends of the stitches, careful not to cut into or past the stitch line. (seems so unnatural right?)

Next, turn the WELT and WELT BACKING to the wrong side of the back pant and press.

On the right side of the pant, top stitch across the length of the welt hole on the folded edge of the WELT BACKING. Ensure the only layers in this stitch path are the BACK PANT, POCKET, WELT BACKING and the seam allowance.
On the wrong side of the pant, press the seam allowance of the WELT joint down towards the BACK PANT.  
Turning over to the right side of the pant, top stitch across the length of the welt hole on the folded edge of the WELT.  Ensure the only layers in this stitch path include the back pant, pocket bag and welt seam allowance.
On the right side of the pant, ensure the midline fold of the WELT aligns with the top of the welt hole and that you cannot see through to the WELT BACKING.  Secure the WELT in place with pins. 
Now, fold the BACK PANT and POCKET BAG away from the sides of the WELT and WELT BACKING. You will find the triangle wedge that you created earlier.  
Gently extend the triangle wedge bit of fabric away from the folded edge. Stitch across the triangle wedge as close as possible to the BACK PANT and POCKET BAG. Repeat on both sides of the welt hole.  
POCKET BAG
Secure the top of the WELT BACKING to the POCKET BAG where it naturally falls. Stitch along the neatened edge of the WELT BACKING to join.  Do not include the back pant in this stitch.
Secure the neatened edge of the WELT to the POCKET BAG.  You might have to trim the seam allowance of the welt/pant joint down, but you want the neatened WELT edge to enclose the seam allowance.  
Stitch along the neatened edge of the WELT to secure it to the POCKET BAG.
Place the remaining POCKET BAG over the already secured POCKET BAG and welt pieces, right side down.  
Join the remaining loose edge of the WELT BACKING to the POCKET BAG where the neatened edge naturally rests under the covering POCKET BAG. Stitch along the neatened edge to join the WELT BACKING to the new POCKET BAG. Do not include any other pattern pieces.
Again, match all sides of the newly introduced POCKET BAG to the secured pocket POCKET BAG.  Stitch the pocket bags together at both sides and the bottom with a 1 cm (3/8") seam allowance. Neaten the seam.  
How about that....Welt pockets!
If you can do a welt pocket, you can do anything!
Feel free to let me know if you have any questions or concerns. 
xo
Sarah